Review 6-22

The Efo Riro at Feydups Kitchen in Sugar Land was a near-perfect representation of Fort Bend County's culinary diversity. (Photo by Matt deGrood)

One of the greatest joys of living in this area is the sheer abundance of food options.

Basically, if you can imagine a cuisine, there’s a good chance you can find a restaurant serving it somewhere in the region.

For as much as we celebrate Fort Bend County’s culinary diversity, and rightfully so, it appears some restaurateurs face an easier battle making a career than others. Open a barbecue restaurant, and you’ve got an eager cadre of patrons at least interested in what you have to offer.

But if you want to open, say, a pierogi shop or a Nigerian restaurant, fewer people are familiar with those types of food.

This week, I visited Sugar Land’s Feydups Kitchen, 1055 Eldridge Road, Ste. 400, and discovered one of Fort Bend County’s hidden gems. The owner of the West African eatery was kind and considerate and cooked a delightful dish of efo riro, which is a Nigerian spinach stew, alongside jollof rice.

I’d never had efo riro before that visit, but it was so flavorful that even as I write this review several days later, I can almost taste it. Strange as it might sound, it had an almost buttery taste.

The jollof rice was filling and as tasty as any I’ve had at other restaurants.

Having watched another patron order a drink called a Vita Malt, I decided to give that a try as well. The owner cautioned me that it wouldn’t taste like anything I’d had and he was correct.

Despite its previously-unknown flavors, I quite enjoyed the drink and nursed it slowly amid hurried bites of rice and efo riro.

It’s hard to offer many critiques of Feydups. I thoroughly enjoyed my meal and left feeling full and satisfied without being so full that I felt sick.

There aren’t too many restaurants where that’s the case.

But more than leaving with an appreciation for a new county restaurant, I left with something of a mission to spread the word about the business.

After telling him how much I enjoyed the meal, the owner asked me to come visit again with my friends. And I couldn’t help but notice that, aside from a few pickup orders, I was about the only patron there.

So please, please, please visit Feydups. And don’t stop there. Fort Bend County is full of fantastic restaurants, seemingly on almost every corner. Next time you’re deciding where to go for lunch, consider trying a cuisine you’ve never had before.

You might be pleasantly surprised by the result.

Feydups Kitchen

Address: 1055 Eldridge Road, Ste. 400, Sugar Land

Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Entrée prices: $18-$23

Kid-friendly: Yes

Senior discount: No

Healthy options: Yam porridge

Star of the show: Efo riro

Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

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